SDSFF FILMMAKER INTERVIEW SERIES TAKE 4: GARETH DAVIES

Unknown Fijian grom Isei Tokovou had been surfing less than 6 months when he was caught dropping in on a Cloudbreak bomb...

...eighteen years later he would live his dream and compete against the world's best.

Introducing THE WAVERIDER.

How did THE WAVERIDER concept materialize?  How much pre-production is possible in a story such as this? 

Yeah it was a bit stressful at one point but all done now.
How did the story materialise….a conversation about doing something for Fiji Tourism was on the cards but that was turned down and we were talking about the upcoming Volcom Pro and my friend Joel, who was in the trials said whoever won the trials would get a wildcard entry into the Volcom Pro and I thought "Now THAT is a story worth following" Got in contact with the Fijian Surfing Association and asked if they were keen and hey presto. As for pre production we had almost no time, literally less than 7 days to get it together. We had no script  which was a very scary part but Karl and I had some pretty solid ideas that we knew we needed to get. Some seriously fancy footwork and mouth work getting us onto the boat but so many people helped us and that is in the spirit of surfing.

Explain the level of emotion for the island of Tavarua when Isei was surfing against Kelly Slater.

The emotional level was raging, Isei had won the trials and had made front page news ding that and that had helped promote it quite heavily, even more so against Kelly and the kids at Isei's son's school were crazy for it. 

Explain the importance of this moment in regards to Isei's role in competitive surfing. 

The importance for Isei was highlighted when we interviewed him at the village, the money he was making form the Volcom Pro, well some of that was going towards him helping young Fijian's improve their surfing, their is a basic club system in place and Isei teaches about 10 kids, more in the summer holidays. As for the competitive side of it, Isei and his "Brothers" do not really compete with each other and Isei said that was a problem as they do not have a strong competitive spirit and that needed to be addressed. Also the fact that there is no real prize at the end of any of the local competitions makes it 

difficult to want to enter. 

What would you like people to walk away from THE WAVERIDER with?

To walk away with…that against such incredible odds, he competed at the highest level possible and most importantly his story STILL goes on. He still drives surfers around on the Tavarua boats and  in the village, he still teaches the kids and is still driven to ensure they and Fijian's will be able to compete on an international level at some point in the future. For that he needs people's support.

Anything else you would like to add?

A huge shout out to Isei and his family, JP from the FSA, Joel,  Richard and the team from Volcom and our families for without their support we do not get to do these kind of things. 

FRIDAY MAY 10TH – LOCALS AND LEGENDS EVENING
6:00-9:00pm: (SET 2)
THE WAVERIDER - Karl Lear
BOOTLEG - Joel Tudor and George Trimm
Short: 
STOKEFEST - Andrew Quinn
*Filmmaker Q&A 
*Music guest: THE RED FOX TAILS
*Food and beverages provided
Location: Bird’s Surf Shed

SDSFF FILMMAKER INTERVIEW SERIES TAKE 3: DAVID ARCHER

Sharing a mutual viewpoint of the ocean, I had the pleasure of meeting up with David in Byron Bay for a quick bodysurf in March 2012.  A lot has happened between then and now so it will be good to catch up with an old friend and chat about bodysurfing and his new film PROCRASTINATION.

Let's take a few breaths with David Archer...

Besides an escape from the grinds of the world, how has bodysurfing changed your life?

Bodysurfing has always been a part of my life.  My brother, father and I were given a bodysurfing handplanes as a Christmas gift over 30 years ago, and family holidays were filled with bodysurfing sessions.  I’ve carried that thing with me everywhere since, to the point of disintegration!  It still hangs in the garage, finally retired.

In the last 10 years, I lost touch with the ocean due to work and LOTS of travel.  I put on weight, got sick ...yada, yada, you know the story.  A few years ago, I drew a line in the sand and actively cut back on the work travel.   I live on Sydney's Northern Beaches - one of the most awesome places in the world.  My local beach is 10 minutes’ walk away.  My plan to get fit and re-engage life was to do lots more bodysurfing.

Since that decision, I’ve ended up joining the local surf club as a volunteer life guard, I became an Age Manager for the surf club Nipper's programme, and have taught myself to shape making handplanes from broken surfboards.

I'm fitter, healthier, more socially engaged, and happier than I have been in 10 years.  And this is mainly as a result of bodysurfing!

Did you notice a larger number of swimmers in the lineup?

There are definitely more swimmers in the lineup, and specifically at certain beaches.  Avalon has a long history in bodysurfing, and at times there are more torpedo people than surfers.  There are a hardcore group that meet at the beach most mornings, and will be out in the line up rain, hail or sunshine.  They inspire you, and stretch you to surf when maybe you wouldn't normally.  When I swim at other beaches, I'm noticing more swimmers.  The movie 'Come Hell or High Water' seems to have inspired more people to explore bodysurfing, and I see younger kids getting out there whomping and trying alternate surf craft like paipos, SUP's and mats.

What was the impetus for this short film?

Procrastination was an accidental film.  A friend of ours organised a local short film competition, and we agreed to help support them by submitting a film.  We thought it would be a great holiday project with our kids.  Time got away, and before I knew it, the deadline was a week away and our kids were distracted with other holiday activities.

I had been teaching myself shaping by making handplanes from broken surfboards, and had been experimenting with a GoPro camera for 12 months or so.  As I already had footage and the deadline was a week away, we didn't have much choice!  Procrastination was born!  It was quite a thrill to have it projected on the big screen to 500 people, and then pick up a cinematography award.  It could easily become addictive!

Cheers on the cinematography award.  

What would you like people to come away with after watching your film?
I was in the water a few weeks ago with a group of guys at the Manly Handplane Hoedown when one made the comment - 'this just feels wrong - everyone is talking, smiling and joking.  What sort of line up is this?' 
To me, bodysurfing has a great 'vibe'.  I love being part of the ocean when bodysurfing - whether it is ducking under large breaking swells and watching the turbulence patterns, the shape of barrel from within the water, or the feeling of planing across a large wave face.  If I can impart that 'vibe' as part of the film, then I'm stoked.  If they feel inspired to pull on a pair of fins as soon as possible and get wet, then even better! 
Are you already working on your next film?
'Procrastination' is the first film I have ever made, and I've been a bit surprised by the interest.  I really enjoyed the process, and will definitely make more.  I have a couple of ideas rattling around, but nothing concrete as yet.  Stay tuned!

PROCRASTINATION can be seen:

FRIDAY MAY 10TH – LOCALS AND LEGENDS EVENING
9:00-11:00pm: (SET 3)
SONS OF BEACHES ’72 - Glenn Blight
Shorts:
THE BEGINNING OF SOMETHING BIG - Doug Walker
1964 - Mike Bromley
PROCRASTINATION - David Archer
*Filmmaker Q&A
* Legends in attendance
*Food and beverages provided
Location: Bird’s Surf Shed
* After-party at the Griffin featuring music by:
REY FRESCO
TODD HANNIGAN

Thanks David.

PROCRASTINATION is one of the many alternative surf craft films that the SDSFF will proudly present throughout the festival.

Which reminds me...

SATURDAY, MAY 11

9:00 am- 12:00 noon: SDSFF STOKEFEST AND BEACH CLEAN-UP

HOOTS AND SHAKAS while you ride the most incredible alternative surf craft and help clean the beach. San Diego shapers will be on hand with demos.

Sponsored by our good friends at H20 Trash Patrol

*Food and beverages provided

Location: Cardiff Campgrounds

*FREE TO THE PUBLIC

SDSFF FILMMAKER INTERVIEW SERIES TAKE 2: NATHAN OLDFIELD

Filmmaker Nathan Oldfield Opens His Heart and Lens to the Sea

By Andrea Siedsma

On the Central Coast of New South Whales, Australia, Nathan Oldfield shares his time between being a husband, father, school teacher, surfer, shaper, photographer and filmmaker.  While his time is limited, he continues to impress and mesmerize us with his deep and beautiful surf films, including “Lines from a Poem,” “Seaworthy,” and his latest “The Heart & The Sea,” which opens the San Diego Surf Film Festival on May 9 at Bird’s Surf Shed.

Below, Nathan takes some time out from a family holiday to talk about the drive and joy behind “The Heart & The Sea,” the benefits and challenges of being an independent filmmaker, and what’s next on his film roll.

What was the inspiration behind The Heart and the Sea?
After my last film, ‘Seaworthy,’ I almost felt like I’d shared everything I could personally about how meaningful and worthwhile surfing is. But then some new ideas started to stir in my heart and I felt like there was something else to explore and communicate in a new film. The film is called ‘The Heart & The Sea’ because it’s about what is important to me in life – healthy relationships and surfing. For lots of us who have surfed our whole lives, there is this beautiful intimacy with the sea that we have in common with our family and friends. The sea brings us together. Surfing gives us many gifts, but perhaps the greatest of these are the deep connections we make with other people through sharing the experience of surfing. I thought this was an idea that was worth taking a look at it in a surf film. So the inspiration behind the film is pretty simple really. It’s a surf movie, but it’s also about surfing lives. I tried to include everyone across the spectrum: kids, elders, men, women, grandparents, husbands, wives, families. Really, it’s a film about joy.

What do you want people to come away with from the film?
I think the film is really centered around gratitude for being alive and sharing surfing with friends. If anyone who watched my film felt a little more stoked and thankful about the gift of surfing, then I’d be a happy filmmaker.

Nathan behind the lens

What is the most rewarding and exciting thing about being an independent filmmaker?
I guess at the end of the day I feel that I’m wired with the need to make things, and filmmaking is an avenue for me to explore that creative drive. It’s personally rewarding for me to make something that is hopefully beautiful, and something that I can be proud of. Apart from that, the thing that my wife Eliza and I are really grateful for over the last 10 years is that my filmmaking has supported our family. The financial return from surf films is really modest, but it has supplemented my teacher’s wage and enabled Eliza to be a stay-at-home-mum, which was always our goal. The other special thing is all the family adventures we have had. When I go away to shoot – whether it’s here in Australia or overseas – I bring my family with me as much as possible. We are really thankful to have shared those experiences of travel with our kids, and without my surf films it’s something we wouldn’t have been able to afford. And the other thing that I’m so thankful for in making surf films has been the people I have met and the lifelong friendships that I’ve discovered along the way.

What is most challenging?
Making a surf film from start to finish entirely on your own is a mammoth task. Throw in the fact that I’m a full-time primary school teacher as well as a husband and a father of three and it becomes even more difficult. So time management is the biggest challenge, as well as sustaining the passion to stay committed to the vision. The low points have been those times when I’ve been overwhelmed with the sheer size of the task. It’s been a long road over the last three years of making The Heart & The Sea, and it has taken an enormous amount of creative energy and time. There were moments along that journey where I questioned whether it was worth it, and indeed if I’d ever get the job done.

 

Nathan enjoying some spray in front of the lens

 What’s next?

At the moment I’m just enjoying some time out. It’s school holidays right now (in Australia) and I’m away up the coast with my family. It’s  my first holiday in over 10 years where I haven’t been shooting with someone. So it’s nice to have a break and to just hang out with the family and go surfing. But I’ve also been working on a few little edits for online shorts and I have some dreams about future projects. We will wait and see where they head.

To find out what else Nathan is up to check out his web site and blog. 

*THURSDAY, MAY 9TH - SAN DIEGO SURF FILM FESTIVAL 2013 OPENING NIGHT 
7:00-10:30pm: (SET 1)
THE HEART AND THE SEA – Nathan Oldfield

Shorts:
NEW ENGLAND BLOOD - Dylan Ladds and Ryan Scura
THE PRESENT MOMENT - Will Suto
OF SOULS + WATER: THE WARRIOR - Skip Armstrong

*Filmmaker Q&A
*Music guest: VAMANOS
*Food and beverages provided 

Location: Bird’s Surf Shed, 1091 W. Morena Blvd., SD
* After-party at the Griffin featuring music by:
ALEKESAM

Noah Johnson: Making Progress

 

By Andrea Siedsma

Noah Johnson is part of a growing cadre of eco-conscious entrepreneurs who are trying to change the way consumer goods and global commerce are produced. He is an eco warrior of sorts, collecting anything from used banners to billboards for his Encinitas, Calif.-based company The Progress Project.  Noah launched the company in 2010 with his wife Jolene. Using recycled materials, The Progress Project makes everything from messenger bags to laptop sleeves, iPad wallets, surfboard bags, tote bags, and even custom orders.

The SDSFF sends out big hoots & shakas to Noah and his family for keeping it local and green. (And we think he’s even more rad for donating some of his killer Progress Project recycled beach bags full of SDSFF goodies for Nautilus Pass holders ). Below, Noah talks about the passion behind The Progress Project and how the family-run business is moving full-speed ahead.

 

Background Check: I grew up in La Mesa, Calif. As a kid, I was very passionate about athletics, including surfing, soccer and baseball. After high school, I served an apprenticeship with a commercial electrician and since have sold women’s shoes, waited tables, partied pretty hard, bartended, managed hotel food and beverage departments, and been an auditor/consultant for bar and  restaurant owners and their managers.

Age: 35 (Turns 36 in June)

Hobbies: Work, painting, ocean, and family.

What Fuels Me: Having a unique vision / idea and committing to do whatever necessary for the result.

 Favorite Quote: “Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds.” ~Albert Einstein

 

Jolene & Noah Johnson

Picking a Passion: As I went through the process of deciding what to do, I noticed repeatedly that there was (and still is) a clear difference between many of the products on the market being labeled as “green” and actually being green.  I thought then that if I could get my hands on materials that had been used, but not recycled yet and make legit products with them, that would be the rad.

Fulltime Family Affair: Up until now, my wife and I have run The Progress Project. It’s just been the two of us doing literally everything unless one of our awesome neighbors lends a hand, which does happen (you know who you are and we love you).

 Materials Matter: We get our materials for The Progress Project from all over. We are grateful to have partnerships with Revolt in Style magazine, which has been donating its RSSS banners from the very beginning. Also a great relationship continues to be with Sustainable Surf, which has produced tens of thousands of square feet of signage from companies such as Rip Curl, REEF and Hurley. The list of businesses that donate their old signage is long, all the way down to SDSFF’s own, Bird Huffman at Bird’s Surf Shed. We also purchase used billboards. I  buy the rest of the materials from a distributor that carries American made products.

The Big Challenge: Because we are still pretty small, our many challenges have been mainly about fueling growth. It has always been our goal to compete with other brands that bring similar products to market. Finding resources to grow a business/brand that is well outside the mainstream is seemingly nearly impossible.  No rich uncles or trust funds here, so the main thing has just been staying focused, persistent and really stubborn long enough for the right opportunity for growth to come along.

 

Fueling & Inspiring Eco-Conscious Consumers: In some ways, I think it can be hard to educate people on the importance of buying organic, green products. In one bag, you’ve got a percentage of consumers that are already on the same eco page – they’re just a very small percentage of the total consumer population, and that’s where it becomes challenging. In a society riddled with thought processes holding cost and popularity as a higher priorities than quality and where a product was made, it’s a tough sell trying to convince Joe and Sally that spending three times as much money for an item that will last five times as long and was made by your neighbor (I’m still not sure why that’s a tough sell, but it is).

Eco Education: Unfortunately, I know there’s still a lot of green washing going on, so while consumers are becoming more conscious, it is becoming more challenging to decipher which products are actually eco-friendly, and even more, businesses that are actually owned and run by people who are eco-friendly themselves. For example, some companies promote themselves and their products as being eco-friendly, but unfortunately, it’s just marketing.

Making Progress: After three  years, on May 1, 2013, The Progress Project is evolving into Progress Brand Mfg. and moving into a space with our eco warrior pals *enjoy handplanes (congrats to them as well). We’ll have more than a dozen sewing machines along with other rad machines, and consequently it will increase our production capabilities by, well, 12. Also, look for lots of fun stuff like a new website, video series, eco blog and much more with our newest partner Album Agency. The Progress Project will live on; I just can’t say how in this moment. I can promise you that it’s going to be pretty epic.

Noah in The Progress Project workshop



The Progress Project Assistants-Noah and Jolene's twins

The Progress Project keeps it in the family (Noah & Jolene's teenage daughter)

 

SDSFF--The Surfer's Coachella

Now that Coachella is over.....The San Diego Surf Film Festival has an amazing music line-up to accompany our stellar international films at The Griffin, which serves as a roadhouse to many nationally and internationally acclaimed music ensembles of all types.

The SDSFF is stoked to partner with The Griffin to offer festival goers a complete weekend of righteous entertainment. The SDSFF is all about encompassing the entire surf culture and community. Join us in this unique celebration of international surf cinema. You'll be glad you did.
To check our schedule and other info please surf the San Diego Surf Film Festival web site here .

Insane artwork by Matt Beard

SAN DIEGO SURF FILM FESTIVAL 2013 SCHEDULE OF RADNESS

 

MAY 8^TH-12^TH, 2013

WEDNESDAY, MAY 8^TH – SAN DIEGO SURF FILM FESTIVAL 2013 VIP PARTY
Stoked to announce the return of the SDSFF and to kick it off with our meet and greet party for SDSFF 2013 Filmmakers, Press and Nautilus Pass holders alike.
On tap for the evening is the World-Premiere of BONZER: THE MOTHERSHIP by the Campbell Brothers and the launch of the Matt Beard’s ART WOMP: the blending of live art and music from Matt Beard, Joe Hodnicki and Skye Walker and photography by Gage Hingeley.
It must be seen to be believed.

Climb aboard Bonzer: The Mothership and travel through time and space exploring the Campbell Brothers latest creations.

7:00-10:00pm
*Filmmaker Q&A
*Music guest: THE SALINE SOLUTIONS
*Food and beverages provided
*Nautilus Pass holders, Filmmakers & Press only
Location: Surfindian 4652 Mission Blvd., SD


THURSDAY, MAY 9TH - SAN DIEGO SURF FILM FESTIVAL 2013 OPENING NIGHT

7:00-10:30pm: (SET 1)
THE HEART AND THE SEA – Nathan Oldfield

Shorts:
NEW ENGLAND BLOOD - Dylan Ladds and Ryan Scura

THE PRESENT MOMENT - Will Suto

OF SOULS + WATER: THE WARRIOR - Skip Armstrong

*Filmmaker Q&A
*Music guest: VAMANOS
*Food and beverages provided

Location: Bird’s Surf Shed, 1091 W. Morena Blvd., SD
* After-party at the Griffin featuring music by:
ALEKESAM

FRIDAY MAY 10^TH – LOCALS AND LEGENDS EVENING

6:00-9:00pm: (SET 2)
THE WAVERIDER - Karl Lear

BOOTLEG - Joel Tudor and George Trimm

Short:  

STOKEFEST - Andrew Quinn

*Filmmaker Q&A
*Music guest: THE RED FOX TAILS
*Food and beverages provided
Location: Bird’s Surf Shed

9:00-11:00pm: (SET 3)

SONS OF BEACHES ’72 - Glenn Blight

Shorts:

THE BEGINNING OF SOMETHING BIG - Doug Walker

1964 - Mike Bromley

PROCRASTINATION - David Archer

*Filmmaker Q&A
* Legends in attendance
*Food and beverages provided
Location: Bird’s Surf Shed
* After-party at the Griffin featuring music by:
REY FRESCO
TODD HANNIGAN

SATURDAY, MAY 11^TH - BIG WAVE SATURDAY
9:00 am- 12:00 noon: SDSFF STOKEFEST AND BEACH CLEAN-UP
HOOTS AND SHAKAS while you ride the most incredible alternative surf craft and help clean the beach.  San Diego shapers will be on hand with demos.
Sponsored by our good friends at H20 Trash Patrol
*Food and beverages provided
Location: Cardiff Campgrounds
*FREE TO THE PUBLIC

2:00-4:00pm: (SET 4)

ALASKA SESSIONS - Frederick Dickerson and Matthew McNeil

Short:

RIVER RUN - Dirk Brandts

*Filmmaker Q&A
*Food and beverages provided

Location: Bird’s Surf Shed

4:00-6:00pm: (SET 5)

STORM SURFERS: OVERCOMING THE COW BOMBIE - Christopher Nelius and Justin McMillan

Shorts:

THE DIAMOND LIGHT WAS IN MY EYES - Phillip Mansfield

SETTING SUNSETS - Gene Sung

THE SWELL - Rocky Romano

*Filmmaker Q&A
*Food and beverages provided
Location: Bird’s Surf Shed

6:00-9:00pm: (SET 6)

ISOLATED - Justin LePera

Shorts:
ADVENTURE TIME - Jack Chellemi

DANIELLE BURT: CHAPTER TWO - Chris Grant

Music guest: MONTALBAN QUINTET
*Filmmaker Q&A
*Food and beverages provided

Location: Bird’s Surf Shed

9:00-11:00pm: (SET 7)

Sine Qua Non: THE PSYCHOLOGY OF BIG WAVE SURFING WITH GREG LONG - Richard Yelland

Bending Colours - Kai Neville

Shorts:

Step N’ Soul - Toma Jablon

Built to Ride – Vol.1 - Andy Miller and Robin Moore

*Filmmaker Q&A
*Food and beverages provided
Location: Bird’s Surf Shed
* After-party at the Griffin featuring music by:
TOM CURREN
MK & THE GENTLEMEN
THE LUCKY LONELY
THE WES COAST

SUNDAY, MAY 12^TH - GROMS BRING YOUR MOMS
All screenings are free to Moms on Mother’s Day when accompanied by a ticketed family member.
11:00am - 1:00pm LOCAL LEGENDS SHAPING DEMO
Bring the whole family and come check out what really goes into the making of our beautiful surf craft.   Expert shapers will be on hand to answer any and all questions about their art and passion. 
*Food and beverages provided
Location: Bird’s Surf Shed
*FREE TO THE PUBLIC

1:00-3:00pm: (SET 8)

Surfing & Sharks - Julian Watson

*Special Guest Great White Shark Expert Q&A

Shorts:

Ricky Whitlock: L-1, T-12 - Timothy A. Ryan

Away - Elisa Bates

Much Better Now - Simon Griesser and Phillip Comarella

Boys to Men: 100 Wave Challenge – Timothy A. Ryan

*Filmmaker Q&A
*Food and beverages provided

Location: Bird’s Surf Shed

3:00-5:00pm: (SET 9)
Lakey Peterson – Zero to 100 - Aaron Lieber
Shorts:

Strength & Grace - Heather Hudson

Party Mix - Hayley Gordon

Leah Dawson - Jordan Miller

*Filmmaker Q&A
*Food and beverages provided

Location: Bird’s Surf Shed

5:00-7:00pm: (SET 10)
THE ENDLESS WINTER: A VERY BRITISH SURF MOVIE - Matt Crocker and James Dean

Shorts:

NORTH - Mikey DeTemple

BEYOND THE SCARS - Chris McClean

EXPERIMENTING WITH DESIGN - Joseph Ryan

*Filmmaker Q&A
*Food and beverages provided

Location: Bird’s Surf Shed

7:00-10:00pm: SDSFF AWARDS CEREMONY AND CLOSING NIGHT CELEBRATION
Join us for the SDSFF AWARDS CEREMONY announcing the winners of the 2013 SPIRIT OF THE FESTIVAL, BEST FEATURE, BEST CINEMATOGRAPHY and BEST SHORT.  Come wrap up an amazing festival with our most eclectic set: THE CLEAN UP SET.  Yep, you might not want to miss this one.
 (SET 11- CLEAN UP SET)
INTENTIO - Loic Wirth

Shorts:

SHVDE - Derek Dunfee

ALE PONZANELLI & MATT CALVANI - Luca Merli

THE FRUITS OF DYSTOPIA - Cyrus Sutton

Filmmaker Q&A
 *Special Musical Guest: LEANNA MAY AND THE MATADORS
*Food and beverages provided
Location: Bird’s Surf Shed

THANK YOU SAN DIEGO, GOOD NIGHT.
PMK

SDSFF FILMMAKER INTERVIEW SERIES TAKE 1: GLENN BLIGHT

Mark Richards, Michael Peterson, Peter Townend, Ian Cairns. Photo: Thor Sverson

One of the coolest parts of a surf film festival is talking to the filmmakers and understanding why they did what they did the way that they did it. Film making is a dynamic art and lots of moving pieces come together to make the final product shine. One filmmaker who has caught a lot of eyeballs and earholes is Glenn Blight, the writer and director of Sons of Beaches '72--a most excellent film with nothing short of an all-star cast. 

Read on as Glenn breaks down some of the details that went into making SOB '72...

What, historically speaking, is the most important part of this film?

For me, it was just getting the film made. It's been quite a journey! Over the course of time it took to make Sons Of Beaches, I wouldn't say there was necessarily one pivotal moment or part historically. It's a combination of things--it's a combination of surfing equipment evolving and changing, the introduction of a rankings system, cultural movement and generational change within the world. Lots of things happening to make it all happen. Specifically, the longboard era of the 60's was over and the shortboard revolution of the 70's was here.

After interviewing the pros from the 70's, the message was pretty clear: they wanted to become pro surfers and they wanted to get paid to go surfing. 

All of that stuff coming together signaled a new era in surfing.

Given that surfing never had a professional surfing circuit before this, how did the San Diego contest go? What is your most vivid memory of that first contest?

Well, that event in '72 was the last amateur world title event and there was not another one after that. The San Diego contest itself was a shmozzel--the surf was a joke, the final was held in knee-high surf but thousands of people came from everywhere so the San Diego Travel Lodge turned into the Woodstock of world surfing and by all accounts, mayhem and chaos reigned supreme.

More importantly, it was the first time shortboards had been used at a world title event. Before that, it was all longboards.

It took surfing years to recover after that event and party at the San Diego Travel Lodge. The fall out from SD was much more positive so many people had turned up to watch surfing. Unfortunately there were no waves but what Peter Townend, Rabbit, MP, Claw, Mark Richards, Larry Bertlemann, Shaun Tomson, Ian Cairns and those sort of guys had seen was the future of surfing. So a rickety pro circuit started to come together and in 1976, PT was crowned the first world champ. Here we are today with Joel Parkinson also on that amazing list of names.

What was the most challenging part of making this film?

There have been lots of hurdles, but I would say nailing surfers down for interviews. Surfers from the 70's are mystos. They're like ghosts that walk. Here one minute, over there the next, then gone. Vanished. Getting some of the tribe to pass on the story would have to be the toughest thing.

The development of surf technology plays a large role throughout the movie. What were surfers riding those days that was considered revolutionary? Why was it revolutionary?

Well, it was the cutdown era in the late 60's. They would cut down old longboards, turn them around and shape them into a shortboard. Then they would glass them and go surf. San Diego got to see the fruit of that era with the first shortboard World Titles in '72.

What was the hardest part about capturing the transition between amateurism to professionalism in tour surfing? 

I was very lucky. There have been some incredible filmmakers and photographers who have documented this era in their chosen field so I have had the luxury of being able to color in my story with the help of the bower bird PT and his renowned collection. Guys like Aussie filmmaker Steve Core and the legendary Hal Jepsen. I just feel blessed being able to breathe some new life into their fabulous work. The hardest thing for me was deciding what to cut out because it's all gold in my eyes.

Was there anyone who dissented from the move to a professional circuit? If so, is that in the movie and how is that portrayed?

Oh course there is always a flipside to anything and the flipside to pro was soul. In 1972, in Australia, the Soul vs Sellout saga played out. Nat and Dick Van and all that crew moved to the country looking for a simpler life, living on a farm or in tree house, etc. Alby Falzon's groundbreaking film "Morning of the Earth" was released so there was a huge push into country soul here in Australia. While on the other hand, the new crew had other ideas and wanted to go pro.

For a few surfers like Andy Mac, Wayne Lynch and a few others, they were amazing surfers and had been very competitive in the early part of their careers in the Aussie titles and other amateur comps here in Oz. I think Wayne Lynch won five Junior Aussie Championships, Andy won a couple, but being competitive professionally, I think those guys' hearts weren't in it.

So yeah, a few people dissented from the move to pro for whatever reason. We brush over it in the film. It was more prevalent in the SOB art and film exhibition and it will rise more as a subject in the next filmic installment of SOB.

Artwork: Leigh Fabian

-Reid Levin